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Eureka Top Variation

Eureka Top Variation

Here's a take on a pieced variation of the staple pattern, the Eureka Top.

These Eureka variations were made with Alabama Chanin organic cotton knit. If you've been wanting to use this fabric, this is the perfect project to try out these fabulous knits. They sew wonderfully and have the perfect lightweight t-shirt texture and hand. The Navy version Linda is wearing was constructed in full Alabama Chanin form, made by hand (minus the neck binding construction) with Coats & Clark Button Craft threadThe Peach version Alex is wearing was constructed entirely by machine. Note how the topstitching detail on the navy, hand-stitched version adds a much different effect. Feel free to explore your options to decide how you want your variation constructed!

​Use code EURBL55 at checkout to get the Eureka pattern for only $18.00! Discount runs through 10/3/16

REFER TO DIAGRAM FOR REFERENCE

The size and dimensions of the samples and pattern diagram shown below correspond to a size small, which is what Linda and Alex are both wearing. Should you want to make this pieced version in a different size, refer the dimensions and shapes shown in the diagram to divide your pattern pieces accordingly. The lengths and angles of these lines will change slightly depending on what size you make.

CREATING THE FRONT

Your Eureka Top Front will now have three separate pieces to cut, as seen in the diagram above.

*If you are making a size small, these listed lengths will be what you measure and trace to create your new pieces.

Lay a piece of tracing paper long enough over your original Eureka Top pattern.

Make note of the line lengths seen on the diagram. For the FRONT pattern piece, draw three dividing lines echoing the dimensions and shapes as shown. Note the horizontal line separating the Right Front pieces (1) and (2) is slightly curved. To perfect this curve, use one of Linda's favorites, the Variform Curve - great for blending on pattern tissues. 

Trace each new pattern piece, adding 5/8" seam allowances to each created RED line. 

CREATING THE BACK

Your Eureka Top Back will now have three separate pieces to cut, as seen in the diagram, dividing at the center back.

Lay a piece of tracing paper long enough over your original Eureka Top pattern.

Make note of the line lengths seen on the diagram. On the BACK left side, note the placement of the horizontal line separating pieces (4) and (5). Draw a line that corresponds with the dimensions as shown. This line meets up evenly with the seam on the Eureka Top Front that connects piece (1) and (2). Trace these new pattern pieces, adding 5/8" seam allowances to the RED line and Center Back seams of piece (4) and (5). 

Divide the Eureka Top Back in half at the Center Back fold. Trace this to create piece (6), adding a 5/8" seam allowance to the Center Back.

CUT OUT YOUR NEW PATTERN PIECES

Once these six new pattern pieces have been traced, check to make sure the seam allowances on the new RED LINES and Center Back pieces have been added. Cut out each pattern piece.

--> Special note: Don't be like me and cut your pieces with the wrong side of the fabric out (Whoops!). This meant that my light pink Eureka Top variation was now reversed! Make sure you pay attention to grain lines, right and wrong sides of fabric, and it's always good to double check your work.


CONSTRUCTING YOUR PIECED TOP:

With right sides together, stitch (1) to (2). Finish seam and press towards the bottom. TOPSTITCH if desired.

With right sides together, stitch this new front panel to (3). When you are stitching the (1/2) piece to (3), turn up the bottom hem of (3), as it will be included in your seam as you sew the two pieces together. Finish seams and press towards the left.

With right sides together, stitch (4) to (5). Finish and press towards the bottom.

With right sides together, stitch this new back panel to (6). Finish seams and press towards the left. TOPSTITCH if desired.

Once the new FRONT and BACK Eureka pattern pieces are created, continue with the original pattern instructions to complete the garment. Miter the front corner on piece (2) as you hem the garment. The instructions for mitering this corner condition is just one of the seven mitering techniques that Linda has written in her book, Mastering Miters. To download the full step-by-step mitering tutorial, click here.

Liberty Shirt Garment Measurements
Linen Gauze Bristol Top

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Thursday, 23 February 2017
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