By Linda Lee on Thursday, 24 August 2017
Category: Blogs

Underlining the Valencia Pants Tutorial

When you love a fabric, but it's not quite the right weight for the piece that you want to make, what do you do? This is what happened to me recently. I fell in love with this printed handkerchief linen fabric and couldn't get past the idea of making pants. But the fabric was too sheer for a bottom weight.

In my Craftsy class, Underneath It All, one of the lessons is all about using underlinings to change the character of a fabric to help make it useful for its unintended purpose. I show examples of underlinings such as cotton batiste, muslin, China silk, silk organza, cotton flannel and lightweight linen. Not only did I not have the right color of any of these fabrics on hand to work with the semi-sheer soft pink linen, but most of these seemed like they would be too hot for an easy-breezy summer pant.

A new fashion trend is using mesh fabrics for double-layer tanks and tops and for edges and trims. We had just gotten a couple of mesh fabrics into our inventory; one a pinkish nude color, the other a soft aqua. I liked the idea of an open, airy fabric as an underlining with no bulk and no color change through the outer fabric. I paired our Ballet Pink Mesh with the Pink Cherry Blossom Linen – a perfect combination!

Basically, I made two pairs of Valencia Pants, using the shorter View B. I cut the mesh pair 1" shorter than the finished length of the linen pants and 3-thread serge-finished the bottom edge in lieu of a turned hem. I hemmed the linen pants in the traditional method.

Before attaching the waistband, I machine basted the mesh pants to the linen pants at the waist. Then I installed the waistband, connecting the two pants and finishing the pants "as one". The mesh underlining had another unexpected benefit. The handkerchief linen does not wrinkle as much as a linen normally does. I did discover that I need to press the linen separately to get better results, so I pull the mesh pants out of the pants in order to press the linen portion more easily.

​The digital linen comes in such a beautiful array of prints. Whether you prefer a pastel look or a bold graphic print, we have many linens that would make beautiful Valencia Pants. However, I know many people don't sew with linen because of the wrinkle factor, so if you fall under that group, why not try making the Valencia Pants using a crepe fabric? Not only do we have some fabulous prints, but they drape of crepe would be beautiful in this pant style.

Purple Sunrise Linen

Black and Grey Graphic Linen

Pink Tropic Crepe

Osaka Pebble Crepe

Night Bloom Pebble Crepe