Welcome back to the Frankie Sew Along. Today we are going to create the pleat in the back of the garment and attach the Back to the Side/Front pieces. Let's get started!
Fold the Back right sides together. At the center back neckline, cut a small notch. You should have already transferred the Pleat Stitching line. Now, use a chalk marker to extend that line to the bottom of the pattern.
Using a standard length, stitch down to the dot that represents the end of the Pleat Stitching Line and backstitch. Adjust your stitch length to a basting stitch and continue stitching along your chalk line to the bottom of the garment.
Open up the pleat and match the center back, which you marked with a notch, to the pleat center line. Press along pleat fold lines to form inverted pleat.
Turn the Back right side up. You will now secure the pleat by edgestitching around the Pleat Stitching line. Use an edgestitch foot, if you have one.
Remove basting stitches below edgestitching.
Using your preferred method, finish edge of the back vent extension. Using the Pressing with Templates method, press this finished back edge ⅝ʺ to the wrong side.
To prevent torquing on this bias edge, apply Fusi-Web along the fold line. Remove the paper covering to reveal a tacky line of glue. Re-fold the edge in place and press to secure.
Topstitch ⅜″ from folded edge.
With right sides together, sew the Back to the Front/Side Back, stopping at the dot and backstitching. Using your preferred method, finish the seam together and extend the finish along the vent curve. Serging a curve can be tricky so you may want to practice first to get that curve looking good.
Move the Back side vent up and out of the way. Using the Pressing Template Method, continue to press ⅝ʺ of the vent edge to the wrong side. Using the Fusi-Web method described above, apply Fusi-Web to the turn back and fuse the edge in place. Starting at the bottom and ending at the dot, topstitch ⅜″ from the folded edge. Leave long tails. Pull the right side tail to the wrong side and tie off. Trim threads.
Pin top of side vent extension in place. Spread out the garment and bring the vent extension towards the dot. Note, it may not reach the dot without buckling the fabric. That is fine, the goal is to keep the garment pieces completely flat before pinning the vent.
On the right side of garment, use a straight edge and chalk marker to mark a ⅜″ line from the diagonal back/side seam. When you reach the top of the previous topstitching, chalk mark the stitching line across the vent extension to the dot.
On the wrong side of your garment, use the Fusi-Web method described above to apply a length of Fusi-Web on the hem allowance of the back/side seam.
Edgestitch ⅜″ from well of the seam on the right side of your garment, following your chalk line. Pivot at the dot and follow the chalk line to attach the vent extension.
Staystitch around the back neckline while sewing the back pleat in place.
Join us for the next chapter of the Frankie Sew Along as we construct the shoulder seams and collar. If you have any questions about the project, email betsy@sewingworkshop, or post your question on our Facebook Group. And don't miss the other posts in the Sew Along.
Frankie Sew Along Part One: Measuring & Alterations
Frankie Sew Along Part Two: Cutting & Marking